A Love Letter from Lhasa  6

Chapter Five: The Journey to Lhasa

24

The van sped along the road toward Ya'an.

Zhangyang said, "The scenery along this route is quite beautiful! The mountains and rivers are magnificent, with an awe-inspiring grandeur."

Annie said, "I know. I've seen these places before in my father's photo albums."

Zhangyang said, "I've seen pictures of the Grand Canyon in America on calendar pages. It has a different feel from the scenery here, but both are spectacular."

Annie said, "Public safety is better here. In our country, guns are easy to obtain, so the daily news is bound to include reports of shootouts between the police and criminals."

Zhangyang said in surprise, "That's unbelievable! Here, ordinary citizens aren't allowed to own guns."

Meido said, "America always seemed so far away to me, somewhere beyond the horizon. If I get the chance someday, I'd really like to visit and see it for myself."

Zashi remarked thoughtfully, "America isn't actually as wonderful as you imagine. People of color still face a certain degree of discrimination, and Black people remain economically disadvantaged."

Zhangyang said, "Over the past twenty years, the central government has paid considerable attention to the Tibetan region, and all kinds of infrastructure development have advanced by leaps and bounds. The tourism industry has gradually become one of the main pillars of our Tibetan people's economy."

Zashi said, "Well, that's why you have an income as a tour guide."

Zhangyang replied cheerfully, "That's true, Professor!"

25

The van arrived in Ya'an. A light drizzle was falling from the sky.

An experienced guide familiar with the area, Zhangyang took the three of them to a Tibetan restaurant where he and Zashi had eaten several times before. The group entered the restaurant, and the owner greeted them warmly.

"Zhangyang, Professor Zashi, welcome! Welcome, everyone!"

Several tables of customers turned to look at Annie, whose red hair and distinctly Western features attracted their attention.

Zashi said, "Let's start with a pot of butter tea to warm ourselves up."

Zhangyang said, "And two pounds of air-dried yak meat and a plate of milk-curd cakes."

"Certainly. Please wait a moment," the owner replied.

The owner turned and headed toward the kitchen.

Zhangyang said, "Ya'an has long been known as the Rain City. It's located on the windward side of the Indian Ocean monsoon, so it rains frequently. Air-dried yak meat and milk-curd cakes are local specialties."

Meido said, "Annie, milk-curd cakes have a distinctive flavor. They're a traditional Tibetan delicacy, and I'm sure you'll like them."

Zashi added, "When you're in a new place, you should follow the local customs. You'll need to get used to our people's eating habits as soon as possible."

Annie nodded and smiled.

The owner brought over a plate and placed the air-dried yak meat and milk-curd cakes on the table. A waiter following behind him set down a pot of freshly blended butter tea.

"Please enjoy your meal," the owner said.

Annie imitated the other three, picking up a piece of milk-curd cake with her fingers and putting it into her mouth.

Meido asked, "It tastes pretty good, doesn't it?"

Annie covered her mouth with one hand and nodded with a smile.

26

By dusk, the van reached Litang. The group sought lodging for the night at Litang Monastery in the county.

In the abbot's quarters, Abbot Wangxiu Rinpoche and Zashi sat on meditation cushions, talking. The candlelight cast their shadows onto the paper window.

"Professor Zashi, have you made any progress on the manuscript of Tsangyang Gyatso's love poems?"

"I've conducted an exhaustive search at the Potala Palace in Lhasa, the nearby Jokhang and Ramoche Monasteries, and among the surrounding nomadic communities. I haven't found any information about the manuscript."

"Perhaps you should travel farther west and visit Tashilhunpo Monastery in Shigatse. You might discover something there."

"That is indeed something I've been considering."

"I believe the Buddha has felt your dedication and perseverance. At the right moment, He will give you some guidance."

"Thank you for your wisdom and guidance, Rinpoche."

27

Zashi and his daughter, Annie, took a walk in the courtyard of Litang Monastery.

"Annie, have you ever heard your grandmother mention the Seventh Dalai Lama, Kelzang Gyatso?"

Annie nodded. "Yes, I have."

"Kelzang Gyatso was the reincarnated lama who succeeded our ancestor, Tsangyang Gyatso. Litang County was his birthplace, so he has some connection to our family."

"Father, could our ancestor's manuscript of love poems have something to do with this place?"

"I began investigating this lead more than ten years ago, but I couldn't find any possible connection. The abbot here, Wangxiu, is an old acquaintance of mine. He's been helping me keep an eye out for any news about the manuscript. My intuition tells me that the manuscript should still be somewhere within Tibet, possibly in Lhasa or a nearby city, or even in one of the nomadic communities."

"From the sound of it, finding that manuscript again really is like searching for a needle in a haystack. We'll just have to hope for a miracle."

Zashi asked solemnly, "Annie, if I fail to find it during my lifetime, would you be willing to take over the search?"

"Father, I'm willing to accept this mission."

Zashi smiled. "With your promise, I can die without regrets!"

28

The van broke down at Dongdala Pass when smoke began coming from its battery. Dusk was approaching, and Meido and Annie, who were inside the vehicle, were becoming somewhat uneasy.

Zhangyang got out and walked to the front of the van. He lifted the hood and inspected the engine, then went around to the rear cargo compartment and took out a satellite antenna. He used his phone to contact a repair shop he knew.

"It's Zhangyang! My van has broken down at Dongdala Pass. The battery's burned out."

"Sending replacement parts from my place in Mangkang would take at least half a day to get there."

"So when can you bring a new battery?"

"I'll have one of my guys set off with it tonight. He should reach the pass at around seven or eight tomorrow morning."

"All right! I'll wait for him!"

Zhangyang put away the satellite antenna and walked to the van's door.

"This is the highest point along the Sichuan-Tibet Highway, at an elevation of more than 5,000 meters. I'm sorry, but we'll have to pitch our tents here tonight and camp until morning."

Meido asked anxiously, "This place is so remote and deserted. Won't there be packs of wolves after dark?"

Zashi reassured her. "Don't worry. We'll build a big campfire. It'll keep us warm, and the wolves won't dare come near when they see the flames."

The three of them got out of the van. Annie took out her camcorder and busily began filming and taking pictures.

From the towering, snow-covered Dongdala Pass, which rose high into the clouds, they could see far into the distance. The Sichuan-Tibet Highway and the Lancang River stretched and wound through the countless mountains and valleys like two shining ribbons.

Zhangyang took a case of bottled water, a bag of dry provisions, tents, and sleeping bags from the rear cargo compartment. Zashi and Meido helped him carry these supplies to a sheltered hollow not far away, protected from the wind.

29

In a sheltered hollow, the two men worked together to pitch the tents. The young woman gathered some dry branches and started a campfire.

The four of them sat around the fire. Zhangyang distributed bottled water and dry provisions among the group. They ate butter flatbread and chewed on strips of dried meat, washing them down with bottled water.

Afterward, Zhangyang took out a fiddle.

"Let's sing a few folk songs and entertain ourselves."

Zhangyang began playing "Kangding Love Song" on the fiddle. Zashi and Meido hummed along with the melody, while Annie clapped her hands to keep the beat.

On the winding mountain slopes where the horses roam, a lovely cloud drifts by,

Its graceful shadow falls upon the lovely town of Kangding.

The moon hangs in a crescent above the lovely town of Kangding...

The eldest daughter of the Li family is such a lovely girl,

The eldest son of the Zhang family has fallen in love with her.

The moon hangs in a crescent, as he has fallen in love with her...

Zhangyang kept his eyes fixed on Annie. A tender affection showed in his singing, but Annie did not notice it.

Meido, however, sensed that Zhangyang seemed to have feelings for Annie, and she couldn't help feeling a little jealous.

"That Zhangyang! He used to treat me like a princess and was always so sweet-tongued. But the moment he sees Annie, he finds out she's just come back from America, and suddenly he can't take his eyes off her..."

30

The next morning, a mechanic arrived with a new battery. Zhangyang lifted the hood, replaced the old battery, and successfully started the van.

Zhangyang paid the mechanic, who then drove away.

The four of them loaded the packed tents and sleeping bags into the rear cargo compartment, and the van continued its journey.

The van entered Nyingchi, where the paved surface of National Highway 318 was straight and in excellent condition.

Zhangyang said energetically, "In another half day's drive, we'll be in Lhasa."

In the back seat, Annie opened her sleepy eyes and gazed at the scenery outside the window.

By the time the van reached the city center, dusk had fallen. Zhangyang dropped everyone off at the entrance of a hotel and unloaded their luggage.

Zashi and the two women got out, picked up their luggage, and followed Zhangyang into the hotel. Zhangyang exchanged a few words with the front desk attendant, then turned and walked back to them.

"I'll come by at eight tomorrow morning and take you sightseeing around the city."

"We've put you to a lot of trouble on this trip, Zhangyang," Zashi said, handing him a stack of banknotes.

"It's only right. We're old friends, after all."

Without even counting the money, Zhangyang slipped it into his pants pocket.

"I'll take them out to eat on the street for dinner."

"Then I'll head back to my hometown first. See you tomorrow."

Zhangyang waved goodbye to the three of them and turned to leave. The front desk attendant handed two room keys to Zashi and Meido.

The three of them went upstairs and entered their respective rooms to put down their luggage.

Annie walked to the window and looked out over the city at dusk.

"I didn't expect this place to be so much more developed and prosperous than I imagined. It looks like a completely modern city."

Behind her, Meido said, "Lhasa really has developed very quickly. Every time I come back, I feel that the city is constantly changing."