因為這本《島嶼的餐桌》讓 kuomama 想起許多孩提時與母親在廚房裡的回憶。最早的記憶是舉火起灶。童年時廚房裡雖已有瓦斯爐，但逢年過節炊粿煮粽總要用到屋外的大灶。我的任務是顧火添柴，兩、三個小時坐在灶前不免難耐，但想到熄火之後就有好吃的粿或粽子，便又耐著性子撥弄柴火。三不五時，母親會過來查看火侯。炊甜粿時還會賞我一筷子熱呼呼的試吃品。啊!那真是甜蜜的幸福滋味！
說到炊甜粿，還有ㄧ件事令我難以忘懷。在米漿磨好後，得先瀝乾水分。將兩袋米漿放上現在已經少見的長板凳，再壓上兩塊木板。接下來的步驟，以母親的說法，乃是成敗的關鍵，二姊和我被一把舉起各自端坐在一塊木板之上。兩個小小人兒一動也不敢動，生怕稍有差池就做不成好吃的甜粿和紅豆粿。現在想來應是母親騙我們幫忙，順便去除兩個在廚房礙手礙腳的麻煩精吧。反正當時也覺得新鮮好玩。坐在高高的王座上，看著母親跟大姊在廚房裡忙碌的身影，我和二姊只管想像成品的美味。
過年前夕鹹的、甜的粿總要蒸上四、五籠。整個過年期間，餐桌上少不了千變萬化的粿。鹹粿當正餐: 剛出蒸籠軟軟嫩嫩的可直接淋上蒜頭醬油、隔天有點硬了香煎，過幾天則是加上蒜苗煮湯。甜粿和紅豆粿當點心。剛起爐趁熱用筷子纏著吃，放涼硬了切片吃，冰過的裹上雞蛋麵粉糊或用餛飩皮包起來炸。那些年，濃濃的年味從廚房瀰漫到整間屋子。過年是無比熱鬧幸福的時光。
母親早逝，灶台已毀。她的絕活我們三姐妹一個也沒學成。年味就這麼消失了。去年大姊試著重現母親的鹹粿，味道雖美卻已不復記憶中那炊煙裊裊、火捲幸福的滋味。
(大姊特製料好實在的菜頭粿。記憶中母親的鹹粿是肉燥粿。所以大姊加了很多肉燥。真正是「落重本」。)
(郭家的獨門粿仔湯。從來沒有在任何店家看過，但那香氣和美味真是讓人難以忘懷。很想叫大姊開家專賣店，生意一定紅火。)
(幼稚園院童搶食一空的郭大姊粿仔湯。詳情見好吃的菜頭粿DIY)
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