六十年的QQ老店,哪裡還有?
巧遇賴新魁的粄條,餘味繞樑之際,忽然想起,台北也有年紀這麼老、口感這麼Q的米食,怎麼就不記得了?
店齡雖老,裝潢倒新,就是已經搬到福州街上的蔡萬興。
算算,蔡萬興也經營半個多世紀了。最常聽到對於老店的批評就是服務態度,不過,我的經驗是還好。
小菜的選項有限,且混雜許多非江浙口味。要吃盆頭菜,我還是習慣選開開看或是隆記飯館。
仍是取了一碟,蔥油芋艿。不知是否時令問題,用的是類似蜜豆冰裡的芋頭切塊而非芋艿。果然,雖然芋塊煮得夠鬆,外層的蔥油也夠香,到了裡層,就沒了味道。
排骨菜飯一碗。網路上,許多食友對這種江浙式排骨菜飯殊乏好感--不就大碗的白飯擱上一片薄薄的煎排骨,既沒有配菜,排骨又不夠鮮嫩多汁,比起豐厚滿足的排骨便當,價格又那麼高,CP值實在很低--這些,我都沒話講,我年輕的時候,想法也差不多。
要說人老了口味改變,我不否認。單純醃過,不裹粉,下鍋炸透而已,這樣薄薄的炸排骨,在橫斷面上,既看不到粉紅色的半熟,也看不到肉汁橫流的奇觀,可是,我就是很愛那股子單純的醬油調和排骨肉的香氣和嚼勁,透著絕妙的滋味和口感。
菜飯裡的青江菜走的不是燜黃的路線,白飯也煮得夠爽口,正好一口一口配這鹹香而不油膩的炸排骨。
看不過癮,乾脆再來張近照。
雪菜肉絲炒糕,這盤也走清爽路線。有趣的是,雪菜、肉絲和筍絲似乎只是稱職地扮演調味和點綴的角色而已,年糕本身的Q度則讓人驚艷,接下來就是一口接一口,欲罷不能!
這樣的一餐,自然該以桂花酒釀湯圓結尾。香不過郁的酒釀滋味,透過淡雅的桂花和輕柔的蛋花,給人一股舒適的安逸感。撈起湯圓一口咬下,令人驚喜的除了紮實的芝麻餡兒以外,還有充滿彈性毫不軟爛的皮兒,完全不同於我對湯圓的印象。
再來個特寫吧,注意到那皮兒的光澤和Q感了嗎?
限會員,要發表迴響,請先登入
- 23樓. 蛙伯特2010/01/24 07:24也常看到名人去吃呢!
高朋滿座的蔡萬興啊,連強強哥哥也常去喔~~~`
我也有一篇燦萬興的食記,有空來看看:老店不寂寞。http://blog.udn.com/frogbert/789063
與其受制環境,不如開創新局。蛙小姐好, 之前就已經拜讀過您的大作啦!馬丁諾 於 2010/01/24 11:37回覆
- 22樓. april`s2009/05/23 20:39蔡萬興
新店的七張捷運站二樓也有蔡萬興老店喔
不過走向和本店不一樣,
七張的分店據店長說是走年輕路線
不過也很好吃喔
年輕路線的蔡萬興? 是怎樣個年輕法? 真令人好奇啊!馬丁諾 於 2009/05/24 00:13回覆
- 21樓. Berkeley妹妹2009/05/23 01:43這個蔡萬興老店是那個之前在南昌路與和平西路交叉口
的那個蔡萬興嗎?
菜色很像吔~如果是同一家,那就太好了,他們的桂花酒釀湯圓沒話說地好吃!
我以為他們倒了呢
正是那一家! 搬到福州街上囉!馬丁諾 於 2009/05/23 10:28回覆
- 20樓. 琴丫頭2009/05/22 23:04本部落格不適宜夜半到訪
本來好好的,愈看愈餓……
每天中午排滿聚餐, 晚上就讓妳餓一下唄!馬丁諾 於 2009/05/23 10:27回覆
- 19樓. 黃冠軍2009/05/22 18:00老店
端陽將至,他家的各種粽子也都不錯。只不過每次都大排長龍!馬丁諾 於 2009/05/22 20:42回覆
- 18樓. 不能正經2009/05/22 10:09就愛這排骨
咬一口,可扒上好幾口飯!
常覺得裹粉的排骨,雖也有好吃的,但口感多半糊裡糊塗的...
我也愛這炸排骨, 單純的肉香, 十足的嚼勁!
馬丁諾 於 2009/05/22 16:16回覆 - 17樓.2009/05/18 23:03hey, i am old but that OLD...
there were probably 2 halal here back to 70s-80s when i was little and my grandpa always took me there as long as i did well in the school( he is 98 now and i just called him yesterday to confirm this....or probably me just like him- getting old ????) ....the only issue i am not quite sure is the location- either Mac or starbucks nowadays......
p.s. memories just like....you've seen the movie"el labertinto del fauno"??.... especially after your hair turns to grey or wake up at 0600 still even for weekend....
my bad, sorry about that.
馬丁諾 於 2009/05/19 11:51回覆 - 16樓. cc.chiou,笨鳥慢飛2009/05/18 16:23果然不是
蓋的!這很像日本的節目,重要時刻來個橫切面特寫, 汁液就這樣的流下來, 令人不禁吞了一口口水!哇!!!!!!~~~~~~cc這解盤方式蠻新穎的, 我倒沒想過!馬丁諾 於 2009/05/18 16:32回覆
- 15樓. YannBing2009/05/18 07:50
害我也好想來上一碗啊!
馬丁諾 於 2009/05/18 15:37回覆 - 14樓.2009/05/18 01:07this one rocks steady!!!
grew up around here and this is one of my favorite even though not been back for 10+ yrs( btw anybody knows where the halal restaurant which was located in nowadays Mac - Roosevelt/ Hoping Rd moves? I missed their beef noodles and dumplings) and luckily my sister's gonna smuggle some of their bamboo leaf rice wraps to me later this year .....and funny thing is my sister's husband who was actually born and grew up in Shanghai...their families visited Twn and tried this one but they did not like it???? probably just like the way I do not like YungHo soyben milk in Peijing...There are at least four halal restaurants famous for beef noodles in Taipei. As far as I know, none is located in the place you described. Perhaps you still remember it's name?
It's not surprising that your Sanghai-born brother-in-law didn't like the taste of 蔡萬興. And the reason you already gave us ...
馬丁諾 於 2009/05/18 15:36回覆