跟著城市嚮導「老臺北胃」，用味道認識臺北

很多朋友來臺北，
都會問我同一個問題：
「臺北小吃那麼多，到底該從哪裡開始吃？」
夜市裡攤位一字排開、老店藏在巷弄轉角，
看起來都很有名，卻又怕吃錯、踩雷，
結果行程走完，反而沒真正記住臺北的味道。
我常被朋友笑說是「老臺北胃」。
不是因為特別會吃，而是因為在這座城市待久了，
知道哪些味道是陪著臺北人成長的日常。
這篇文章，就是我整理的一份清單。
如果你第一次來臺北，
我會帶你從這 10 樣最具代表性的臺北小吃開始，
不追一時爆紅、不走浮誇路線，
而是讓你吃完後能真正理解
原來，這就是臺灣的小吃文化。
跟著老臺北胃走，
用最簡單的方式，
把臺北的味道，一樣一樣記在心裡。

我怎麼選出這 10 大臺北小吃？

在臺北，
你隨便走進一條夜市或老街，
都可以輕易列出 30 種以上的小吃。
所以這份清單，
不是「臺北最好吃」的排名，
 而是我站在「第一次來臺北的旅客」角度，
做的推薦。
身為一個被朋友稱作「老臺北胃」的人，
我選這 10 樣小吃時，心裡一直放著幾個原則。

一吃就知道：這就是臺灣味

燒烤、火鍋很好吃，
但換個城市、換個國家，也吃得到。
我挑的，是那種
只要一入口，就會讓人聯想到的臺灣味。
 不需要解釋太多，舌頭就能懂。

不只是好吃，而是有「臺北日常感」

臺北的小吃迷人，
不只在味道，
而在它融入生活的方式。
我在意的是：

1. 會不會出現在早餐、宵夜、下班後
2. 有沒有陪伴這座城市很久的記憶

吃完之後，你會記得臺北

最後一個標準很簡單。
如果你回到家，
還會突然想起某個味道、某碗熱湯、某個攤位的香氣
那它就值得被放進這份清單裡。

接下來的 10 樣臺北小吃，
就是我會親自帶朋友去吃的在地美食。
不趕行程、不拚數量，
而是一口一口，
慢慢認識臺北。

第 1 家：饌堂－黑金滷肉飯（雙連店）｜一碗就懂臺灣人的日常

如果只能用一道料理，
 來解釋臺灣人的日常飲食，
 那我一定會先帶你吃滷肉飯。
在臺北，滷肉飯不是什麼特別的節慶料理，
 而是從早餐、午餐到宵夜，
 默默陪著很多人長大的味道。
而在眾多滷肉飯之中，
饌堂－黑金滷肉飯（雙連店），
 我很常帶第一次來臺北的朋友造訪的一家。

為什麼第一站，我會選饌堂？
饌堂的滷肉飯，走的是**「黑金系」路線**。
滷汁顏色深、香氣厚，
卻不死鹹、不油膩。
滷肉切得細緻，
肥肉入口即化，搭配熱騰騰的白飯，
每一口都是很完整、很臺灣的味道。
對第一次吃滷肉飯的旅客來說，
這種風味夠經典、也夠穩定，
不需要太多心理準備，就能理解為什麼臺灣人這麼愛它。

不只是好吃，而是「現在的臺北感」
饌堂並不是那種躲在深巷裡的老攤，
空間乾淨、節奏俐落，
卻沒有失去滷肉飯該有的靈魂。
這也是我會推薦給旅客的原因之一：
它保留了臺灣小吃的核心味道，
同時也讓第一次來臺北的人，
吃得安心、坐得舒服。

老臺北胃的帶路小提醒
如果是第一次來：

1. 一定要點招牌黑金滷肉飯
   
2. 可以加一顆滷蛋，風味會更完整
3. 搭配簡單的小菜，就很有臺灣家常感

這不是那種吃完會驚呼「哇！」的料理，
而是會讓你在幾口之後，
慢慢理解
原來，臺灣人的日常，就是這樣被一碗飯照顧著。

地址：103臺北市大同區雙連街55號1樓

電話：0225501379

菜單：https://bio.site/ZhuanTang

第 2 家：富宏牛肉麵｜臺北深夜也醒著的一碗熱湯

如果說滷肉飯代表的是臺灣人的日常，
 那牛肉麵，
 就是很多臺北人心中最有份量的一餐。
而在臺北提到牛肉麵，
 富宏牛肉麵，
 幾乎是夜貓族、加班族、外地旅客一定會被帶去的一站。

為什麼老臺北胃會帶你來吃富宏？
富宏最讓人印象深刻的，
不是華麗裝潢，
而是那鍋永遠冒著熱氣的紅燒湯頭。
湯色濃而不混，
帶著牛骨與醬香慢慢熬出的厚度，
喝起來溫潤、不刺激，
卻會在嘴裡留下很深的記憶點。
牛肉給得大方，
燉到軟嫩卻不鬆散，
搭配彈性十足的麵條，
每一口都很直接、很臺北。

不分時間，任何時候都適合的一碗麵
富宏牛肉麵最迷人的地方，
在於它陪伴了無數個臺北的夜晚。
不管是深夜下班、看完演唱會、
或是剛抵達臺北、還沒適應時差，
這裡總有一碗熱湯在等你。
對旅客來說，
這種不用算時間、不用擔心打烊的安心感，
本身就是一種臺北特色。

老臺北胃的帶路小提醒
第一次來富宏，我會這樣點：

1. 紅燒牛肉麵是首選
   
2. 如果想吃得更過癮，可以加點牛筋或牛肚
3. 湯先喝一口原味，再視情況調整辣度

這不是精緻料理，
卻是一碗能在任何時刻撐住你的牛肉麵。
在臺北，
很多夜晚，
就是靠這樣一碗熱湯走過來的。

地址：108臺北市萬華區洛陽街67號

電話：0223713028

菜單：https://www.facebook.com/pages/富宏牛肉麵-原建宏牛肉麵/

第 3 家：士林夜市・吉彖皮蛋涼麵｜臺北夏天最有記憶點的一口清爽

如果你在夏天來到臺北，
 一定會很快發現一件事
 這座城市，真的很熱。
也正因為這樣，
 臺北的小吃世界裡，
 才會出現像「涼麵」這樣的存在。
而在士林夜市，
 吉彖皮蛋涼麵，
 就是我很常帶旅客來吃的一家。

為什麼在夜市，我會帶你吃涼麵？
很多人對夜市的印象，
都是炸物、熱湯、重口味。
但真正的臺北夜市，
其實也很懂得照顧人的胃。
吉彖的涼麵，
冰涼的麵條拌上濃郁芝麻醬，
再加上切得細緻的皮蛋，
入口的第一瞬間，
就是一種「被降溫」的感覺。
那種清爽，
不是沒味道，
而是在濃香與清涼之間取得剛剛好的平衡。

皮蛋，是靈魂，也是臺灣味的關鍵
對很多外國旅客來說，
皮蛋是既好奇、又有點猶豫的存在。
但我常說，
如果要嘗試皮蛋，
涼麵是一個非常溫柔的起點。
芝麻醬的香氣會先接住味蕾，
皮蛋的風味則在後段慢慢出現，
不衝、不嗆，
反而多了一層深度。
很多人吃完後，
都會露出那種「原來是這樣啊」的表情。

老臺北胃的帶路小提醒
第一次點吉彖皮蛋涼麵，我會建議：

1. 一定要選皮蛋款，才吃得到特色
2. 醬料先拌勻，再吃，風味會更完整
3. 如果天氣真的很熱，這一碗會救你一整晚

這不是華麗的小吃，
卻非常臺北。
在悶熱的夜晚，
站在夜市人潮裡，
吃著一碗涼麵，
你會突然明白——

原來臺北的小吃，連氣候都一起考慮進去了。

地址：111臺北市士林區基河路114號

電話：0981014155

菜單：https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100064238763064

第 4 家：胖老闆誠意肉粥｜臺北人深夜最踏實的一碗粥

如果你問我，
 臺北人在深夜、下班後，
 最容易感到被安慰的食物是什麼——
 我會毫不猶豫地說：肉粥。
而提到肉粥，
 胖老闆誠意肉粥，
 就是很多老臺北人口中的那一味。

為什麼這一碗粥，會被叫做「誠意」？
胖老闆的肉粥，看起來很簡單。
白粥、肉燥、配菜，
沒有華麗擺盤，也沒有複雜作法。
但真正坐下來吃，你會發現：
這碗粥，不敷衍任何一個細節。
粥體滑順、不稀薄，
肉燥香而不膩，
搭配各式家常小菜，
一口一口吃下去，
很自然就會放慢速度。
這種味道，
不是要你驚艷，
而是要你安心。

這不是觀光小吃，而是臺北人的生活片段
胖老闆誠意肉粥，
最迷人的地方，
就是它的客人。
你會看到：

1. 剛下班的上班族
2. 熬夜後來吃一碗熱粥的人
3. 熟門熟路、點菜不用看菜單的老客人

這些畫面，
比任何裝潢都更能說明這家店在臺北的位置。
對旅客來說，
這是一個走進臺北人日常的入口。

老臺北胃的帶路小提醒
第一次來吃，我會這樣建議：

1. 肉粥一定要點，這是主角
2. 配幾樣小菜一起吃，才有完整體驗
3. 不用急，慢慢吃，這碗粥就是要你放鬆

這不是為了拍照而存在的小吃，
而是那種
**會讓人記得「那天晚上，我在臺北吃了一碗很溫暖的粥」**的味道。

地址：10491臺北市中山區長春路89-3號

電話：0913806139

菜單：https://lin.ee/xxbYZyS

第 5 家：圓環邊蚵仔煎｜夜市裡最不能缺席的臺灣經典

如果要選一道
 最常出現在旅客記憶裡的臺灣小吃，
 蚵仔煎一定排得上前幾名。
而在臺北，
 圓環邊蚵仔煎，
 就是那種很多臺北人從小吃到大的存在。

為什麼蚵仔煎，這麼能代表臺灣？
蚵仔煎的魅力，
不在於精緻，
而在於它把幾種看似簡單的食材，
煎成了一種獨特的口感。
新鮮蚵仔的海味、
雞蛋的香氣、
地瓜粉形成的滑嫩外皮，
最後再淋上甜中帶鹹的醬汁，
一口下去，
就是夜市的完整畫面。
這種味道，
很難在其他國家找到替代品。

圓環邊，吃的是記憶感
圓環邊蚵仔煎，
沒有多餘的包裝，
也不刻意迎合潮流。
它留下來的原因很簡單
味道夠穩、節奏夠快、
讓人一吃就知道「對，就是這個」。
對旅客來說，
這是一家
不需要研究、不需要比較，就能安心點蚵仔煎的地方。

老臺北胃的帶路小提醒
第一次吃蚵仔煎，我會這樣建議：

1. 趁熱吃，口感最好
   
2. 不用急著加辣，先吃原味
3. 醬汁是靈魂，別急著把它拌掉

蚵仔煎不是細嚼慢嚥的料理，
它屬於人聲鼎沸、鍋鏟作響的夜市時刻。
站在人群裡，
吃著一盤熱騰騰的蚵仔煎，
你會很清楚地感受到
這，就是臺北的夜晚。

地址：103臺北市大同區寧夏路46號

電話：0225580198

菜單：https://oystera.com.tw/menu

第 6 家：阿淑清蒸肉圓｜第一次吃肉圓，就該從這裡開始

說到臺灣小吃，
 很多人腦中一定會出現「肉圓」兩個字。
但真正吃過之後才會發現，
 肉圓，從來不只有一種樣子。
在臺北，
 阿淑清蒸肉圓，
 就是我很常拿來介紹「清蒸派肉圓」的一家。

清蒸肉圓，和你想像的不一樣
不少旅客對肉圓的第一印象，
來自油炸版本，
外皮厚、口感重。
而阿淑的清蒸肉圓，
完全是另一個方向。
外皮晶瑩、滑嫩，
帶著自然的彈性，
不油、不膩，
一入口反而顯得清爽。
內餡扎實，
豬肉香氣清楚，
搭配特製醬汁，
味道層次簡單卻很乾淨。

為什麼我會推薦給第一次來臺北的旅客？
因為這顆肉圓，
不需要適應期。
它不刺激、不厚重，
即使是第一次嘗試臺灣小吃的人，
也能輕鬆接受。
對旅客來說，
這是一顆
「吃得懂、也記得住」的肉圓。

老臺北胃的帶路小提醒
第一次來阿淑，我會這樣吃：

1. 直接點一顆清蒸肉圓，吃原味
2. 醬汁先別全部拌開，邊吃邊調整
3. 放慢速度，感受外皮的口感變化

這不是夜市裡熱鬧喧囂的料理，
而是那種
安靜地展現臺灣小吃功夫的味道。
當你吃完這顆肉圓，
會更明白一件事
臺灣小吃的魅力，
往往藏在這些細節裡。

地址：242新北市新莊區復興路一段141號

電話：0229975505

第 7 家：胡記米粉湯｜一碗最貼近臺北早晨的味道

如果說前面幾樣小吃，
 是臺北的熱鬧與記憶，
 那麼米粉湯，
 就是這座城市最真實的日常。
而在臺北，
 胡記米粉湯，
 是很多人從小吃到大的存在。

為什麼米粉湯，這麼「臺北」？
米粉湯不是重口味料理，
它靠的不是刺激，
而是一碗清澈卻有深度的湯。
胡記的湯頭，
用豬骨慢慢熬出香氣，
喝起來清爽、不油，
卻能在喉嚨留下溫度。
米粉細軟，
吸附湯汁後入口順滑，
簡單到不能再簡單，
卻正是臺北人習以為常的早晨風景。

配菜，才是這一碗的靈魂延伸
在胡記吃米粉湯，
主角雖然是湯，
但真正讓人滿足的，
往往是那些小菜。
紅燒肉、豬內臟、燙青菜，
隨意點上幾樣，
湯一口、菜一口，
就是很多臺北人記憶中的早餐組合。
對旅客來說，
這是一種
不需要解釋，就能融入的臺北生活感。

老臺北胃的帶路小提醒
第一次來胡記，我會這樣建議：

1. 一定要點米粉湯，湯先喝
2. 再配 1～2 樣小菜，體驗會完整很多
3. 這一餐適合慢慢吃，不用趕

這不是為了觀光而存在的小吃，
而是一碗
每天準時出現在臺北人生活裡的湯。
當你坐在店裡，
聽著湯勺碰撞的聲音，
你會突然感覺到——
原來，臺北的早晨，
就是從這樣一碗米粉湯開始的。

地址：106臺北市大安區大安路一段9號1樓

電話：0227212120

第 8 家：藍家割包｜一口咬下的臺灣街頭記憶

如果要選一道
 外國旅客一看到就會好奇、吃完又會記住的小吃，
 割包，一定在名單裡。
而在臺北，
 藍家割包，
 就是我很放心帶旅客來認識這道經典的一站。

割包，為什麼被叫做「臺灣漢堡」？
割包的結構其實很簡單：
鬆軟的白饅頭、
燉得入味的滷五花肉、
酸菜、花生粉、香菜。
但真正迷人的，
是這些元素組合在一起時，
形成的層次感。
肉香、甜味、鹹味、清爽度，
在一口之間同時出現，
沒有誰搶戲，
卻彼此剛好。
這種平衡感，
正是臺灣小吃很迷人的地方。

藍家割包不是走浮誇路線，
它給人的感覺很直接
就是你期待中的割包樣子。
饅頭柔軟不乾，
五花肉肥瘦比例恰到好處，
入口即化卻不膩口，
花生粉的甜香收尾，
讓整體味道非常完整。
對第一次吃割包的旅客來說，
這是一個
不會出錯、也很容易愛上的版本。

老臺北胃的帶路小提醒
第一次吃藍家割包，我會這樣建議：

1. 直接點招牌割包，不要改配料
2. 如果有香菜，建議保留，味道會更完整
3. 趁熱吃，饅頭口感最好

割包不是精緻料理，
卻非常有記憶點。
站在街頭，
拿著一顆熱騰騰的割包，
邊走邊吃，
你會很清楚地感受到
這一口，就是臺灣的街頭生活。

地址：100臺北市中正區羅斯福路三段316巷8弄3號

電話：0223682060

菜單：https://instagram.com/lan_jia_gua_bao?utm_medium=copy_link

第 9 家：御品元冰火湯圓｜臺北夜晚最溫柔的一碗甜

吃了一整天的臺北小吃，
 到了這個時候，
 胃其實已經差不多滿了。
但只要天氣一涼，
 或夜色慢慢降下來，
 你還是會想找一碗——
 不是為了吃飽，而是為了舒服的甜點。
這時候，我通常會帶你來 御品元冰火湯圓。

為什麼叫「冰火」？這碗湯圓的關鍵就在這裡
御品元最有特色的地方，
就在於它的「冰火交錯」。
熱騰騰的湯圓，
外皮軟糯、內餡濃香，
搭配冰涼清甜的桂花蜜湯，
一口下去，
溫度在嘴裡交替出現。
不是衝突，
而是一種很細膩的平衡。
這樣的吃法，
也正是臺灣甜點很擅長的地方——
不張揚，但很有記憶點。

這是一碗，會讓人慢下來的甜點
和夜市裡熱鬧的甜品不同，
御品元的冰火湯圓，
更像是一個讓人停下腳步的存在。
你會發現，
坐在這裡吃湯圓的人，
說話聲都會不自覺地變小。
對旅客來說，
這不只是吃甜點，
而是一個
把白天的熱鬧慢慢收進回憶裡的時刻。

老臺北胃的帶路小提醒
第一次吃御品元，我會這樣建議：

1. 點招牌冰火湯圓，體驗完整特色
2. 先單吃湯圓，再搭配湯一起吃
3. 放慢速度，這一碗不適合趕時間

這不是為了拍照而存在的甜點，
而是一碗
會讓你記得「那天晚上在臺北，很舒服」的湯圓。

地址：106臺北市大安區通化街39巷50弄31號

電話：0955861816

菜單：https://instagram.com/lan_jia_gua_bao

第 10 家：頃刻間綠豆沙牛奶專賣店｜把臺北的味道，留在最後一口清甜

走到這一站，
 其實已經不需要再吃什麼大份量的東西了。
這時候，
 最適合的，
 是一杯不吵鬧、不張揚，
 卻會默默留在記憶裡的飲品。
頃刻間綠豆沙牛奶，
 就是我很常用來替一天畫下句點的選擇。

綠豆沙牛奶，為什麼這麼「臺灣」？
在臺灣，
飲料不只是解渴，
而是一種生活節奏。
綠豆沙牛奶看起來簡單，
但真正好喝的版本，
靠的是火候、比例，
還有耐心。
頃刻間的綠豆沙，
口感細緻、不粗顆，
甜度自然、不膩口，
牛奶的加入，
讓整杯變得柔順而溫和。
這不是衝擊味蕾的飲料，
而是一種
喝完之後，會覺得剛剛那一刻很舒服的甜。

為什麼我會用它當作最後一站？
因為它很臺北。
你可以外帶，
邊走邊喝；
也可以站在店門口，
慢慢把杯子喝空。
沒有儀式感，
卻很真實。
對旅客來說，
這杯綠豆沙牛奶，
就像是把今天吃過的所有味道，
溫柔地整理好，
帶走。

老臺北胃的帶路小提醒
第一次喝頃刻間，我會這樣建議：

1. 直接點招牌綠豆沙牛奶
   
2. 正常甜就很剛好，不用特別調整
3. 找個角落慢慢喝，別急著趕路

這一杯，
不會讓你驚呼，
卻會在回程的路上，
突然想起來。
原來，臺北的味道，是這樣結束一天的。

地址：111臺北市士林區小北街1號

電話：0228818619

菜單：https://instagram.com/chill_out_moment?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

如果只有 3 天的自助旅行在臺北，怎麼吃這 10 家？

第一次來臺北，
時間有限、胃容量也有限，
與其每一家都趕，不如照著節奏吃。
這份 3 天小吃路線，
是老臺北胃會帶朋友實際走的版本：
不爆走、不硬塞，
讓你每天都吃得剛剛好。

臺北 3 天小吃推薦行程表（老臺北胃版本）

天數	時段	店家名稱	小吃類型
Day 1	午餐	饌堂－黑金滷肉飯（雙連店）	滷肉飯
Day 1	下午	阿淑清蒸肉圓	肉圓
Day 1	晚餐	富宏牛肉麵	牛肉麵
Day 1	宵夜	胖老闆誠意肉粥	粥品
Day 2	早餐	胡記米粉湯	米粉湯
Day 2	下午	藍家割包	割包
Day 2	晚上	士林夜市－吉彖皮蛋涼麵	涼麵
Day 2	夜市	圓環邊蚵仔煎	蚵仔煎
Day 3	下午	御品元冰火湯圓	甜點
Day 3	收尾	頃刻間綠豆沙牛奶專賣店	飲品

雖然每個小吃的地點都有一點距離，但是你也知道，好吃的小吃，是值得你花一點時間前往品嘗
老臺北胃的小提醒

1. 不需要每一家都點到最滿
2. 留一點餘裕，才會想再回來
3. 臺北小吃的魅力，不在於吃多少，而在於記住了什麼味道
   

當你照著這 3 天走完，
你會發現，
臺北不是靠一兩道名菜被記住的，
而是靠這些看似日常、卻很真實的小吃。
下次再來，老臺北胃再帶你吃更深的那一輪。

老臺北胃帶路｜這 10 口，就是我心中的臺北

寫到這裡，
 其實已經不是在推薦哪一家小吃了。
而是在回頭看，
 這座城市，是怎麼用食物陪著人生活的。
滷肉飯、牛肉麵、肉粥、米粉湯，
 不是為了成為觀光名單而存在，
 而是每天默默出現在臺北人的日子裡。
夜市裡的蚵仔煎、涼麵、割包，
 熱鬧、吵雜、節奏很快，
 卻也正是臺北最真實的樣子。
而最後那碗湯圓、那杯綠豆沙牛奶，
 則是在一天結束時，
 替味蕾留下一個溫柔的句點。

如果你問我，
「這 10 家是不是臺北最好吃的小吃？」
我會說，
它們不一定是排行榜第一名，
卻是我真的會帶朋友去吃的版本。
因為它們吃得到：

1. 臺北人的日常
2. 巷弄裡的熟悉感
3. 不需要解釋，就能被理解的味道

如果你是第一次來臺北，
跟著這份清單走，
你不一定會吃得最飽，
但你一定會記得——
臺北，是什麼味道。
而如果有一天，
你又再回到這座城市，
走進熟悉的街口、
看到冒著熱氣的小攤，
你也會開始懂得，
為什麼老臺北胃，
總是記得這些看似平凡的滋味。
因為，真正留在心裡的，
從來不是吃過多少，
而是哪一口，讓你想起臺北。

圓環邊蚵仔煎吃過會回訪嗎？

走完這 10 家，

你可能會發現一件事富宏牛肉麵會不會太甜？

臺北的小吃，其實不急著被你記住。

它們就安靜地存在在街角、夜市、轉彎處，富宏牛肉麵真的有誠意嗎？

等你有一天，再回到這座城市。阿淑清蒸肉圓在地人推薦嗎？

如果你是第一次來臺北，胡記米粉湯男生會吃得飽嗎？

希望這份「老臺北胃帶路」的清單，

能幫你少一點猶豫、多一點安心。

不用擔心踩雷，饌堂－黑金滷肉飯（雙連店）在地人推薦嗎？

也不用為了排行而奔波，圓環邊蚵仔煎女生會喜歡嗎？

只要照著節奏走，

你就會吃到屬於自己的臺北味道。

而如果你已經來過臺北，

那更希望這篇文章，胡記米粉湯值得專程去嗎？

能帶你走進那些

你可能錯過、卻一直都在的日常小吃。

因為真正迷人的旅行，

從來不是把清單全部打勾，

而是某一天，

你突然想起那碗飯、那口湯、那杯甜，饌堂－黑金滷肉飯（雙連店）本地人會吃嗎？

然後在心裡對自己說一句：饌堂－黑金滷肉飯（雙連店）真的有誠意嗎？

「下次再去臺北，還想再吃一次。」

把這篇文章存起來、分享給一起旅行的人，

或是在規劃行程時，再回來看看。

讓味道，成為你認識臺北的方式。

下一次來臺北，

別急著走遠。

老臺北胃，士林夜市－吉彖皮蛋涼麵值得一試嗎？

會一直在這些地方，

等你再回來。

The Human Pangenome Reference Consortium has made significant progress in creating a more inclusive human reference genome by assembling genomic sequences of 47 individuals from around the world. The original human reference genome was based on data from a single individual of African-European background, limiting its representation of genetic diversity. This new pangenome, which renders over 99% of each sequence with high accuracy, reveals almost 120 million DNA base pairs previously unseen. By providing a more accurate representation of human genetic diversity, researchers can refine their understanding of the link between genes and diseases, accelerate clinical research, and ultimately help address health disparities. In a major advance, scientists have assembled genomic sequences of 47 people from diverse backgrounds to create a pangenome, which offers a more accurate representation of human genetic diversity than the existing reference genome. This new pangenome will help researchers refine their understanding of the link between genes and diseases, and could ultimately help address health disparities. For more than 20 years, scientists have relied on the human reference genome, a consensus genetic sequence, as a standard against which to compare other genetic data. Used in countless studies, the reference genome has made it possible to identify genes implicated in specific diseases and trace the evolution of human traits, among other things. But it has always been a flawed tool. One of its biggest problems is that about 70 percent of its data came from a single man of predominantly African-European background whose DNA was sequenced during the Human Genome Project, the first effort to capture all of a person’s DNA. As a result, it can tell us little about the 0.2 to one percent of genetic sequence that makes each of the seven billion people on this planet different from each other, creating an inherent bias in biomedical data believed to be responsible for some of the health disparities affecting patients today. Many genetic variants found in non-European populations, for instance, aren’t represented in the reference genome at all. The new draft pangenome reference contains 47 genomes instead of just one, and will provide a much better point of comparison than the traditional reference to find and understand the differences in our DNA. Credit: National Human Genome Research Institute For years, researchers have called for a resource more inclusive of human diversity with which to diagnose diseases and guide medical treatments. Now scientists with the Human Pangenome Reference Consortium have made groundbreaking progress in characterizing the fraction of human DNA that varies between individuals. As they recently published in Nature, they’ve assembled genomic sequences of 47 people from around the world into a so-called pangenome in which more than 99 percent of each sequence is rendered with high accuracy. Layered upon each other, these sequences revealed nearly 120 million DNA base pairs that were previously unseen. While it’s still a work in progress, the pangenome is public and can be used by scientists around the world as a new standard human genome reference, says The Rockefeller University’s Erich D. Jarvis, one of the primary investigators. “This complex genomic collection represents significantly more accurate human genetic diversity than has ever been captured before,” he says. “With a greater breadth and depth of genetic data at their disposal, and greater quality of genome assemblies, researchers can refine their understanding of the link between genes and disease traits, and accelerate clinical research.” Sourcing Diversity Completed in 2003, the first draft of the human genome was relatively imprecise, but it became sharper over the years thanks to filled-in gaps, corrected errors, and advancing sequencing technology. Another milestone was reached last year, when the final eight percent of the genome—mainly tightly coiled DNA that doesn’t code for protein and repetitive DNA regions—was finally sequenced. Despite this progress, the reference genome remained imperfect, especially with respect to the critical 0.2 to one percent of DNA representing diversity. The Human Pangenome Reference Consortium (HPRC), a government-funded collaboration between more than a dozen research institutions in the United States and Europe, was launched in 2019 to address this problem. At the time, Jarvis, one of the consortium’s leaders, was honing advanced sequencing and computational methods through the Vertebrate Genomes Project, which aims to sequence all 70,000 vertebrate species. His and other collaborating labs decided to apply these advances for high-quality diploid genome assemblies to revealing the variation within a single vertebrate: Homo sapiens. To collect a diversity of samples, the researchers turned to the 1000 Genomes Project, a public database of sequenced human genomes that includes more than 2500 individuals representing 26 geographically and ethnically varied populations. Most of the samples come from Africa, home to the planet’s largest human diversity. “In many other large human genome diversity projects, the scientists selected mostly European samples,” Jarvis says. “We made a purposeful effort to do the opposite. We were trying to counteract the biases of the past.” It’s likely that gene variants that could inform our knowledge of both common and rare diseases can be found among these populations. Mom, Dad, and Child But to broaden the gene pool, the researchers had to create crisper, clearer sequences of each individual–and the approaches developed by members of the Vertebrate Genome Project and associated consortiums were used to solve a longstanding technical problem in the field. Every person inherits one genome from each parent, which is how we end up with two copies of every chromosome, giving us what’s known as a diploid genome. And when a person’s genome is sequenced, teasing apart parental DNA can be challenging. Older techniques and algorithms have routinely made errors when merging parental genetic data for an individual, resulting in a cloudy view. “The differences between mom’s and dad’s chromosomes are bigger than most people realize,” Jarvis says. “Mom may have 20 copies of a gene and dad only two.” With so many genomes represented in a pangenome, that cloudiness threatened to develop into a thunderstorm of confusion. So the HPRC homed in a method developed by Adam Phillippy and Sergey Koren at the National Institutes of Health on parent-child “trios”—a mother, a father, and a child whose genomes had all been sequenced. Using the data from mom and dad, they were able to clear up the lines of inheritance and arrive at a higher-quality sequence for the child, which they then used for pangenome analysis. New Variations The researchers’ analysis of 47 people yielded 94 distinct genome sequences, two for each set of chromosomes, plus the sex Y chromosome in males. They then used advanced computational techniques to align and layer the 94 sequences. Of the 120 million DNA base pairs that were previously unseen or in a different location than they were noted to be in the previous reference, about 90 million derive from structural variations, which are differences in people’s DNA that arise when chunks of chromosomes are rearranged—moved, deleted, inverted, or with extra copies from duplications. It’s an important discovery, Jarvis notes, because studies in recent years have established that structural variants play a major role in human health, as well as in population-specific diversity. “They can have dramatic effects on trait differences, disease, and gene function,” he says. “With so many new ones identified, there’s going to be a lot of new discoveries that weren’t possible before.” Filling Gaps The pangenome assembly also fills in gaps that were due to repetitive sequences or duplicated genes. One example is the major histocompatibility complex (MHC), a cluster of genes that code proteins on the surface of cells that help the immune system recognize antigens, such as those from the SARS-CoV-2 virus. “They’re really important, but it was impossible to study MHC diversity using the older sequencing methods,” Jarvis says. “We’re seeing much greater diversity than we expected. This new information will help us understand how immune responses against specific pathogens vary among people.” It could also lead to better methods to match organ transplant donors with and patients, or identify people at risk for developing autoimmune disease. The team has also uncovered surprising new characteristics of centromeres, which lie at the cruxes of chromosomes and conduct cell division, pulling apart as cells duplicate. Mutations in centromeres can lead to cancers and other diseases. Despite having highly repetitive DNA sequences, “centromeres are so diverse from one haplotype to another, that they can account for more than 50 percent of the genetic differences between people or maternal and paternal haplotypes even within one individual,” Jarvis says. “The centromeres seem to be one of the most rapidly evolving parts of the chromosome.” Relationship building The current 47-people pangenome is just a starting point, however. The HPRC’s ultimate goal is to produce high-quality, nearly error-free genomes from at least 350 individuals from diverse populations by mid-2024, a milestone that would make it possible to capture rare alleles that confer important adaptive traits. Tibetans, for example, have alleles related to oxygen use and UV light exposure that enable them to live at high altitudes. A major challenge in collecting this data will be to gain trust from communities that have seen past abuses of biological data; for example, there are no samples in the current study from Native American nor Aboriginal peoples, who have long been disregarded or exploited by scientific studies. But you don’t have to go far back in time to find examples of unethical use of genetic data: Just a few years ago, DNA samples from thousands of Africans in multiple countries were commercialized without the donors’ knowledge, consent, or benefit. These offenses have sown mistrust against scientists among many populations. But by not being included, some of these groups could remain genetically obscure, leading to a perpetuation of the biases in the data—and to continued disparities in health outcomes. “It’s a complex situation that’s going to require a lot of relationship building,” Jarvis says. “There’s greater sensitivity now.” And even today, many groups are willing to participate. “There are individuals, institutions, and governmental bodies from different countries who are saying, ‘We want to be part of this. We want our population to be represented,’” Jarvis says. “We’re already making progress.” For more on this breakthrough, see Human Pangenome Reference: A Deeper Understanding of Worldwide Genomic Diversity. References: “A draft human pangenome reference” by Wen-Wei Liao, Mobin Asri, Jana Ebler, Daniel Doerr, Marina Haukness, Glenn Hickey, Shuangjia Lu, Julian K. Lucas, Jean Monlong, Haley J. Abel, Silvia Buonaiuto, Xian H. Chang, Haoyu Cheng, Justin Chu, Vincenza Colonna, Jordan M. Eizenga, Xiaowen Feng, Christian Fischer, Robert S. Fulton, Shilpa Garg, Cristian Groza, Andrea Guarracino, William T. Harvey, Simon Heumos, Kerstin Howe, Miten Jain, Tsung-Yu Lu, Charles Markello, Fergal J. Martin, Matthew W. Mitchell, Katherine M. Munson, Moses Njagi Mwaniki, Adam M. Novak, Hugh E. Olsen, Trevor Pesout, David Porubsky, Pjotr Prins, Jonas A. Sibbesen, Jouni Sirén, Chad Tomlinson, Flavia Villani, Mitchell R. Vollger, Lucinda L. Antonacci-Fulton, Gunjan Baid, Carl A. Baker, Anastasiya Belyaeva, Konstantinos Billis, Andrew Carroll, Pi-Chuan Chang, Sarah Cody, Daniel E. Cook, Robert M. Cook-Deegan, Omar E. Cornejo, Mark Diekhans, Peter Ebert, Susan Fairley, Olivier Fedrigo, Adam L. Felsenfeld, Giulio Formenti, Adam Frankish, Yan Gao, Nanibaa’ A. Garrison, Carlos Garcia Giron, Richard E. Green, Leanne Haggerty, Kendra Hoekzema, Thibaut Hourlier, Hanlee P. Ji, Eimear E. Kenny, Barbara A. Koenig, Alexey Kolesnikov, Jan O. Korbel, Jennifer Kordosky, Sergey Koren, HoJoon Lee, Alexandra P. Lewis, Hugo Magalhães, Santiago Marco-Sola, Pierre Marijon, Ann McCartney, Jennifer McDaniel, Jacquelyn Mountcastle, Maria Nattestad, Sergey Nurk, Nathan D. Olson, Alice B. Popejoy, Daniela Puiu, Mikko Rautiainen, Allison A. Regier, Arang Rhie, Samuel Sacco, Ashley D. Sanders, Valerie A. Schneider, Baergen I. Schultz, Kishwar Shafin, Michael W. Smith, Heidi J. Sofia, Ahmad N. Abou Tayoun, Françoise Thibaud-Nissen, Francesca Floriana Tricomi, Justin Wagner, Brian Walenz, Jonathan M. D. Wood, Aleksey V. Zimin, Guillaume Bourque, Mark J. P. Chaisson, Paul Flicek, Adam M. Phillippy, Justin M. Zook, Evan E. Eichler, David Haussler, Ting Wang, Erich D. Jarvis, Karen H. Miga, Erik Garrison, Tobias Marschall, Ira M. Hall, Heng Li and Benedict Paten, 10 May 2023, Nature. DOI: 10.1038/s41586-023-05896-x “Increased mutation rate and gene conversion within human segmental duplications” by Mitchell R. Vollger, Philip C. Dishuck, William T. Harvey, William S. DeWitt, Xavi Guitart, Michael E. Goldberg, Allison N. Rozanski, Julian Lucas, Mobin Asri, Human Pangenome Reference Consortium, Katherine M. Munson, Alexandra P. Lewis, Kendra Hoekzema, Glennis A. Logsdon, David Porubsky, Benedict Paten, Kelley Harris, PingHsun Hsieh and Evan E. Eichler, 10 May 2023. Nature. DOI: 10.1038/s41586-023-05895-y

A glasswing butterfly feeding at flowers in Costa Rica. The remarkable transparency of these butterflies allows them to be “invisible,” and the antiglare coating of their wings helps to prevent them from being given away by any glare of sunlight off their wings. Credit: Nipam Patel Many animals have evolved camouflage tactics for self-defense, but some butterflies and moths have taken it even further: They’ve developed transparent wings, making them almost invisible to predators. A team led by Marine Biological Laboratory (MBL) scientists studied the development of one such species, the glasswing butterfly, Greta oto, to see through the secrets of this natural stealth technology. Their work was published in the Journal of Experimental Biology. Although transparent structures in animals are well established, they appear far more often in aquatic organisms. “It’s an interesting biological question because there just aren’t that many transparent organisms on land,” notes lead author Aaron Pomerantz, a PhD candidate in Integrative Biology at the University of California, Berkeley. “So we asked the question, what is the actual developmental basis of how they create their transparent wings?” Haetera species of clearwing butterfly. Credit: Aaron Pomerantz Butterfly wings are known for their colorful patterns, created by tiny, overlapping, chitinous scales that reflect or absorb various wavelengths of light to produce colors. Pomerantz says that although scale coloration has been intensively studied, investigating the developmental origins of transparency in land-based butterflies hadn’t been done before. “Transparency is sort of the opposite of color,” he says. Pomerantz and his co-authors, including his PhD advisor and MBL Director Nipam Patel, were inspired by the work of students in MBL’s Embryology course, in which Patel teaches. “I decided to bring some of the transparent butterfly and moth species I had in my collection, which I never really looked at in detail, to the course and present it as a challenge for the students to look at how these wings were transparent,” Patel says. “A group of students took that on by imaging the wings with various microscopes. And they realized that pretty much any way you could think to make the wing transparent, some butterfly or moth had figured out how to do it. That’s what got us looking in more detail at the development of transparency.” A glasswing butterfly on a leaf. Credit: Aaron Pomerantz Building on that work, the researchers used confocal and scanning electron microscopy to construct a developmental time scale of how transparency emerges in Greta oto, from the pupal stage to adulthood. They found that the glasswing butterfly’s wings develop differently than opaque species, with a lower density of precursor scale cells in the areas that will later develop as transparent. At a very early stage, scale growth and morphologies differed, with thin, bristle-like scales developing in transparent regions and flat, round scale morphologies within opaque regions. “What Greta oto does is to make fewer scales and to make them in these very different, bristle-like shapes,” Patel explains. “But getting the scales out of the way is only part of the problem of creating transparency. Aaron also made a series of observations about nanostructures on the wing that prevent glare in bright sunlight. When light hits these little arrays of nanostructures, it doesn’t reflect off — it goes straight through. So that gives much better transparency,” he says. “As humans, we think we’re so brilliant because we figured out how to put anti-glare coating on glass, but butterflies basically figured that out tens of millions of years ago,” Patel says. Unusual wing scales and nanostructures are only part of the story. A second layer of waxy hydrocarbon nanopillars lies atop the wing surface, providing further anti-reflective properties. The researchers examined the reflectivity of the wings before and after removing the waxy layer with hexane. “We measured the amount of light that reflected off the wing,” says Pomerantz. “Those experiments demonstrated that that upper layer was very important for helping to reduce that glare.” Biochemical analysis showed that the waxy layer is mostly composed of long chain n-alkanes, similar to those found in other insect species. “They’re primarily thought of as something that helps prevent an insect from drying out or desiccating. But in this case, it seems like they’re used for these anti-glare properties as well.” Future research directions may include delving more deeply into how these transparent structures evolved. Pomerantz points out that “if we can learn more about how nature creates new types of nanostructures, that can be very informative for human applications.” The work is making the secrets of natural transparency considerably less opaque. Reference: “Developmental, cellular and biochemical basis of transparency in clearwing butterflies” by Aaron F. Pomerantz, Radwanul H. Siddique, Elizabeth I. Cash, Yuriko Kishi, Charline Pinna, Kasia Hammar, Doris Gomez, Marianne Elias and Nipam H. Patel, 28 May 2021, Journal of Experimental Biology. DOI: 10.1242/jeb.237917

Cell segmentation stain of human skin. Using the xenium cell segmentation antibody panel. Pink = cell membrane, blue = nuclei, yellow/green = internal cell stain. Credit: Wellcome Sanger Institute A new human skin atlas and skin organoid could revolutionize treatments for skin disorders and enhance regenerative medicine techniques. A team of researchers has created the first single-cell atlas of prenatal human skin to understand how skin forms, and what goes wrong in disease. The team, comprised of researchers from the Wellcome Sanger Institute, Newcastle University, and their collaborators, used single-cell sequencing and other genomics techniques to create the atlas and uncover how human skin, including hair follicles, is formed. These findings could be used to create new hair follicles in regenerative medicine and skin transplants for burn victims. Xenium of human skin, zoomed in. Credit: Wellcome Sanger Institute Development and Application of a Skin Organoid In the study, recently published in Nature, the team also created a ‘mini-organ’ of skin in a dish with the ability to grow hair. Using the organoid, they showed how immune cells play an important role in scarless skin repair, which could lead to clinical applications to prevent scarring after surgery, or scarless healing after wounding. As part of the Human Cell Atlas,[1] which is mapping all cell types in the human body to transform understanding of health and disease, the researchers provide a molecular ‘recipe’ to build skin and a new organoid model to study congenital skin diseases. Skin is the largest organ of the human body, measuring on average two square meters. It provides a protective barrier, regulates our body temperature, and can regenerate itself. Skin develops in the sterile environment of the womb, with all hair follicles formed before birth – there is follicle cycling after birth, but no new follicles are made. Before birth, skin has the unique ability to heal without scarring. Xenium of human skin. This image demonstrates some selected genes of interest. Cyan = stem cells, orange = keratincoytes, green and purple = immune cells. Credit: Wellcome Sanger Institute Skin Development and Genetics Research It has been difficult to study how the human skin develops, as animal models have key differences. As part of the Human Cell Atlas, a team of researchers is focused on learning how human skin is built. Understanding how skin develops, where cells are in space and time, and the role of genetics will help reveal how specific mutations cause congenital skin disorders, such as blistering disorders and scaly skin. In this new study, researchers at the Wellcome Sanger Institute, Newcastle University, and their collaborators created the first single-cell and spatial atlas of human prenatal skin. The team used samples of prenatal skin tissue,[2] which they broke down to look at individual cells in suspension, as well as cells in place within the tissue. Scientists used cutting-edge single-cell sequencing and spatial transcriptomics[3] to analyze individual cells in space and time, and the cellular changes that regulate skin and hair follicle development. They described the steps that outline how human hair follicles are formed and identified differences from mouse hair follicles. Changing growth media on skin organoids, laboratory work at the Wellcome Sanger Institute. Credit: Greg Moss / Wellcome Sanger Institute Advancements in Skin Organoid Models Using adult stem cells,[4] the researchers also created a ‘mini-organ’ of skin in a dish, known as an organoid, with the ability to grow hair. They compared the molecular characteristics of skin organoids with prenatal skin and found the skin organoid model more closely resembled prenatal skin than adult skin. The team found that blood vessels did not form in the skin organoid as well as prenatal skin. By adding immune cells known as macrophages to the organoid, they discovered the macrophages promoted the formation of blood vessels, and the team undertook 3D imaging to assess blood vessel formation within the tissue. Xenium of human skin. This image demonstrates some selected genes of interest. Cyan = stem cells, orange = keratincoytes, green and purple = immune cells. Credit: Wellcome Sanger Institute Role of Macrophages in Skin Development It’s known that these immune cells protect the skin from infection. However, this is the first time that macrophages have been shown to play a key role in the formation of human skin during early development by supporting the growth of blood vessels. This offers an option to improve the vascularisation of other tissue organoids. The team also analyzed differences in cell types between prenatal skin and adult skin. They show how macrophages play an important role in scarless skin repair in prenatal skin, which could lead to clinical applications to avoid scarring after surgery or wounding. Changing growth media on skin organoids, laboratory work at the Wellcome Sanger Institute. Credit: Greg Moss / Wellcome Sanger Institute Clinical Applications and Future Research As a result of this study, the team provides a molecular ‘recipe’ for how human skin is built and how hair follicles form. These insights could be used in the creation of new hair follicles for regenerative medicine, such as for skin transplants for burn victims, or those with scarring alopecia. The prenatal human skin atlas will also be used to identify in which cells the genes are active, or expressed, that are known to cause congenital hair and skin disorders, such as blistering disorders and scaly skin. The researchers found that genes involved in these disorders are expressed in prenatal skin, meaning they originate in utero. The skin organoids created in this study offer a new, accurate model for studying these diseases. “With our prenatal human skin atlas, we’ve provided the first molecular ‘recipe’ for making human skin and uncovered how human hair follicles are formed before birth. These insights have amazing clinical potential and could be used in regenerative medicine, when offering skin and hair transplants, such as for burn victims or those with scarring alopecia,” said Dr Elena Winheim, co-first author from the Wellcome Sanger Institute. Dr Hudaa Gopee, co-first author from Newcastle University, said: “We’re excited to have made a skin organoid model that grows hair. In this process, we uncovered a new, important role of immune cells in promoting the growth of blood vessels in developing skin tissue, which could help improve other organoid models. These immune cells, called macrophages, also appear to play a key part in scarless skin repair in prenatal skin. Our findings could inform clinical advances to avoid scarring after surgery.” Professor Muzlifah Haniffa, co-lead author and Interim Head of Cellular Genetics at the Wellcome Sanger Institute, said: “Our prenatal human skin atlas and organoid model provide the research community with freely available tools to study congenital skin diseases and explore regenerative medicine possibilities. We are making exciting strides towards creating the Human Cell Atlas, understanding the biological steps of how humans are built, and investigating what goes wrong in disease.” Notes This study is part of the Human Cell Atlas (HCA), an international collaborative consortium which is creating comprehensive reference maps of all human cells — the fundamental units of life — as a basis for understanding human health and for diagnosing, monitoring, and treating disease. The HCA is likely to impact every aspect of biology and medicine, propelling translational discoveries and applications and ultimately leading to a new era of precision medicine. The HCA was co-founded in 2016 by Dr Sarah Teichmann, then at the Wellcome Sanger Institute (UK) and Dr Aviv Regev, then at the Broad Institute of MIT and Harvard (USA). A truly global initiative, there are now more than 3,500 HCA members, from 101 countries around the world. https://www.humancellatlas.org Prenatal skin tissue samples were provided by the Human Developmental Biology Resource (HDBR) and the Cambridge Bio Resource. Spatial transcriptomics is a molecular method that maps gene activity in a tissue sample, and its location. It allows researchers to accurately measure gene expression at the cellular level within intact tissue samples. The skin organoid was produced using induced pluripotent stem cells (iPSCs) from the KOLF cell line, generated by the Human Induced Pluripotent Stem Cell Initiative (HipSci). Find out more about HipSci: https://www.hipsci.org/ Reference: “A prenatal skin atlas reveals immune regulation of human skin morphogenesis” by Nusayhah Hudaa Gopee, Elena Winheim, Bayanne Olabi, Chloe Admane, April Rose Foster, Ni Huang, Rachel A. Botting, Fereshteh Torabi, Dinithi Sumanaweera, Anh Phuong Le, Jin Kim, Luca Verger, Emily Stephenson, Diana Adão, Clarisse Ganier, Kelly Y. Gim, Sara A. Serdy, CiCi Deakin, Issac Goh, Lloyd Steele, Karl Annusver, Mohi-Uddin Miah, Win Min Tun, Pejvak Moghimi, Kwasi Amoako Kwakwa, Tong Li, Daniela Basurto Lozada, Ben Rumney, Catherine L. Tudor, Kenny Roberts, Nana-Jane Chipampe, Keval Sidhpura, Justin Englebert, Laura Jardine, Gary Reynolds, Antony Rose, Vicky Rowe, Sophie Pritchard, Ilaria Mulas, James Fletcher, Dorin-Mirel Popescu, Elizabeth Poyner, Anna Dubois, Alyson Guy, Andrew Filby, Steven Lisgo, Roger A. Barker, Ian A. Glass, Jong-Eun Park, Roser Vento-Tormo, Marina Tsvetomilova Nikolova, Peng He, John E. G. Lawrence, Josh Moore, Stephane Ballereau, Christine B. Hale, Vijaya Shanmugiah, David Horsfall, Neil Rajan, John A. McGrath, Edel A. O’Toole, Barbara Treutlein, Omer Bayraktar, Maria Kasper, Fränze Progatzky, Pavel Mazin, Jiyoon Lee, Laure Gambardella, Karl R. Koehler, Sarah A. Teichmann and Muzlifah Haniffa, 16 October 2024, Nature. DOI: 10.1038/s41586-024-08002-x Funding: This work was supported by Wellcome, the CIFAR MacMillan Multiscale Human program, and others. Full funding details are available in the publication.

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