The first day of Dubai’s fashion showcase had presentations from mixed bag of talents — from Lebanon to Iran and the Philippines

If there was ever any doubt about the fashion talent coming out of this region, one need only look at the first day showcases at Fashion Forward season four, the fashion week-style twice-yearly event that opened on Saturday in Dubai.

Featuring a combined bag of abilities - from Lebanon to Iran and the Malaysia - the first day saw an modern mix of developers, beginning with Rayya Morrcos, the Beirut-based developer who is all set to signify the Center Eastern in the popular Woolmark Award next season for womenswear with her brand Fowl on a Cable. (Emperor 1688 will signify the area for menswear). The day shut with a Dubai favorite, the Philippine developer Eileen Cinco, who's clothed many Celebrities, and whose wonderful take on the Audrey Hepburn traditional My Reasonable Woman only recognized his expertise of components and designs. He revealed off his style for type and material.

Maral

Launched only last year in Paris, Iranian designer Maral Yazarloo made a strong Dubai debut with her royal collection for her label Maral. Using predominantly raw silk, her collection took inspiration from her rich Persian heritage, with an Indian twist. Having lived for many years in India where her label is still based, Yazarloo's very wearable pieces were rich in embroidery and took on an orientalist vibe.

There were layered gowns and playful cheap cocktail dresses with rich work but on very contemporary silhouettes, most of them created out of raw silk.

"If you leave it to me, everything would be made of raw silk," the designer joked after her show. "Raw silk is beautiful, the texture is very strong and the colours can go as strong as you want. I just love the look of it, the way the fabric blends into each shape. I don't think any other fabric can look that way."

If she chose this collection - also infused with a hint of Greek goddess - as her entry to the Gulf market, we can only say Yazarloo would have chosen well.

Starch Foundation

The young designers from Rabih Kayrouz' Beirut incubator have had a show at Fashion Forward since its inception, and with good reason: It's a great way to showcase what can be done with those who aspire to fashion design are given support and training. And so while they are not faultless and the collections are limited, it's always a show to believe in. First up was Timi Hayak's study of cream crepes and gauzes, clothing the colour and texture of bandages, but with the opposite effect, one of lightness and freedom. Most successful were the skits, midi and long, with high slits, and a-line princess formal dresses. Woolmark Prize nominee Rayya Morrcos struck a high note with a fresh take on a long overcoat that fluttered and flowed around the body.

Emperor 1688

What is a brand to do? Evolution and showing your customer something new is the name of the game, said NOWFASHION editor-in-chief Jessica Michault in her housefull, honest and hilarious keynote speech on fashion lessons on Saturday. But staying true your identity and heritage is another must-do. For a young brand such as this one, founded with menswear only in 2007 by the Golkar brothers Babak, Haman Golkar and Farhan, moving forward while staying on-messsage is the biggest challenge. I found plenty to like in their collection, now 60 per cent womenswear, which still plays be the menswear rules of tailoring, even incorporating suit-fabric checks into shorts. (The brothers seem to have gotten a preview copy of Michault's playbook: She also mentioned that even for womenswear hopefuls, the less-cluttered menswear calendar is a good place to make a name.) There is nary a frill in sight; drama comes from a textured and richly coloured selection of fabrics.

House of Ronald

The collection from the Lebanese designer was jarring. Starting with a sleek metallic take on 1970s flares before moving into cutesy crop-top and skirt combos, there were nice touches such as a short sleeve with only the top half of the cuff making a frame for the upper arm. However a series of short, tight dresses, one of them with shiny black PVC, let down what had the makings of a smart collection. It was surprising to see pieces that would have been at home in a high-street store.