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試譯 化身無數的蒝荽籽
2018/10/07 18:40
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化身無數的蒝荽籽 /蔡珠兒

The Uncountable Incarnations of Coriander Seeds By Jewel Tsai

 

北歐人做醃漬食物、德國人灌香腸、瑞士人烤麵包和蘋果派、保加利亞人烘蛋糕、英國人做泡菜及調製琴酒(Gin)……,蒝荽籽都是不可或缺的香料,其用法可能近乎中國人使用花椒或茴香,但蒝荽籽甜鹹皆宜,可以廣泛用於烘製糕餅甜食,靈活程度更大,在缺乏零嘴的從前,歐洲人還把它沾裹糖霜做成糖珠子,嘉年華會時從遊行花車上四處拋撒,惹得孩童瘋狂搶拾,後來糖珠子演變為五彩碎紙,是西方節慶婚俗的必備之物,而這五彩紙的英文Confeitti即來自蒝荽的Coriander

Northern Europeans make pickled foods. Germans make sausages. Swiss bake breads and apple pies. Bulgarians bake cakes. British people make pickled cabbages and produce Gin…To all of them, coriander seeds are necessary seasonings and the usage is likely similar to the way Chinese use Sichuan pepper or fennel, while the coriander seeds are both suitable for the salty and sweet foods and widely applied on baking cakes and desserts. In a word, the application of coriander seeds is comprehensive. In the past, snacks were short, Europeans even iced sugar to the coriander seeds as sweet beads, which were scattered around from a festooned vehicle and wildly picked up by kids in the carnival. Later on, sweet beads are replaced by Confeitti, which is the must have in the Western weddings and festivals. The word Confeitte is derived from Coriander.

 

歐洲雖然是蒝荽的發源地,但綜觀其調味運用的方法,縱使甜鹹俱備,基本上還是萬變不離其宗的蒝荽籽文化,極少動用蒝荽的枝葉。

Although the coriander is found in Europe and used in various ways in both salty and sweet foods, it still sticks to the original culture of coriander seeds. The coriander leaves and stems are almost untouched.

 

除了歐洲之外,印度也是籽文化的另一大系,著名的咖哩即含有大量的蒝荽籽粉末。一般人誤以為咖哩只是一種現成的黃色調味香料,其實咖哩千變萬化,北印度、南印度、孟加拉、東南亞等地,都有本土的配方特色,香辣濃淡各自不同,種類多達上千種,攙和使用的辛香植物則多達十幾二十幾樣,其中有幾樣是構成咖哩的基本配方小荳蔻、歐蒔蘿、胡椒、黃薑、乾辣椒,以及蒝荽籽。雖然印度菜也流行用蒝荽葉綴飾或切碎後燉煮,但為數有限,其意義與普遍性都無法與咖哩相比。

Except Europe, India also belongs to another big system of coriander seeds’ culture. The famous curry actually contains a lot of powder made by coriander seeds. Most people mistake curry as ready-made single yellowish seasoning. As a matter of fact, curry is made with volatile ways and is with local prescriptions in northern India, southern India, Bangladesh, Southeast Asia. And the local prescriptions are different in flavors (sweet smelling, spicy, thick, thin.) and are available for more than thousand kinds. The mixed seasonings are ten or twenty kinds or so. Among the spicy seasonings are several basic ingredients: cardamom, cumin, pepper, turmeric, dry chill and coriander seeds. Although the coriander leaves are greatly used for decoration or minced for stewing, such cases are rare and less important and prevalent than curry.

 

蒝荽籽的味道比莖葉來得溫和,所以形成的感覺也較為蘊藉含蓄,隱而不顯,令人難以察覺。相形之下,蒝荽業文化就熱鬧多了,直截了當的香味,翠綠醒目的顏色,爽脆中帶澀的口感;在在向感官提出主動的挑戰。

The taste of coriander seeds is milder than coriander leaves and stems. So, the feelings it arises is also more implicit and suggestive, concealing and not showing, hard to be perceived. On the contrary, the culture of coriander leaves is with much excitement. The direct coming fragrance, the eye-catching emerald green color, the crispy and astringent flavor; all of these raise the challenges to sense organs proactively.

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